Thursday, July 5, 2012

Guatemala ≠ Honeymoon

Thursday, June 14th, 2012...

I am seated in the plush comfort of the American Airlines economy class of a 737, complete with more A/C than I want, seats that pretend to recline, and the promise of several hours of noise from the six kids seated in my vicinity for the several hour flight to DFW. The mini drop-down TVs are showing peaceful scenes from Guatemala, my country of departure: lovely sunsets over the ocean, birds dipping over azure water while Cottonelle clouds float in the backdrop, tropical trees being teased by the gentle breezes. It's every ounce of serenity missing from this completely booked flight aboard the "small, metal tube of death," as my husband David cynically dubbed it while we were prodded down the aisle to the screaming baby section. The sandy beach on the screen appears increasingly welcoming, however a good book might suffice as a working substitute.



The peaceful scenes switch off and a female announcer over the intercom nearly manages to communicate that it's time to turn off electronics over the infant in the back reaching octaves and decibles simultaneously that I couldn't achieve separately. Except possibly if I saw another of those dreadful Guatemalan spiders. Safety instructions playing on the TV instantly lose my attention since it's an announcement I could nearly write from memory, though I might have to spice it up a bit.

Aside from journaling complaints, there isn't much to do while waiting for take-off except to scrutinize the other passengers like a journalist or overly curious American who has become accustomed to the social acceptability of impolite stares during a week as one of the only white-ish people in a remote Guatemalan town. Most of my nearer seat mates, and the majority of the flight, actually, appears to be tourists. Cheap, mass produced souvenirs from kiosks in the airport adorn wrists, necks, and backpacks. The handmade, brightly-colored cloth bag in my lap cost me Q15 (or about $2.25) at an open air market where natives bought and sold their crops, clothing, trinkets, and an assortment of imported baubles.



I can't help but wonder what everyone else's experience was during their visit to Guatemala and how it may have differed from David's and mine. Did they get their "Guatemala" emblazoned artifacts from the gift shop in their resort hotel by the "serenity scenes" beach displayed on the drop-down TVs? Or did they travel hours of gutted road to remote villages, shop the open air markets, take cold showers in water they couldn't drink, sleep on concrete floors that trumped the dirt floors in most of the native homes, and drink the warm corn beverage served by generous illiterate locals who welcomed visitors with all they had to offer, which still was always more than they could afford? Did they swim in pristine pools with sunscreen on or did they hike mountains wearing bug spray as they followed women and young children past vertical mountain farms?



Were their meals exotic because the Burger King menu was written "en espanol" or because it was cooked in a tiny, hole-in-the-wall "restaurant" being run by a 23 year old girl who has been supporting her siblings for the last six years? Did they see Mayan ruins left bured by ancient peoples or experience the modern ruins of people buried in abject poverty? Did they have a smooth pleasant stay or find themselves visiting the local farmacia in hopes of a solution for explosive diarrhea brought on by something their stomaches were too civilized for? Have they been using free wi-fi in their hotels all week or have they been sitting under a tin roof, listening to the pounding rain every night? Are their cameras filled with gigabytes of beach, crowded streets, and the Guatemalan mall or secluded caves, remote waterfalls, swinging bridges, and giggling children who were excited at the novelty of seeing themselves?



I'm not entirely sure which version of Guatemala to wish on my dozing or noisy fellow travelers; perhaps a little of everything. My reverie is slightly broken by the one native passenger near me--a Guatemalan lady in the seat to my immediate left. She doesn't speak English, and my Spanish is minimal, but I know her name is Enma Y. G. Garcia, and she was born in 1947. I only know this and that her destination is Dallas, TX. She had me fill out her customs form once I finished mine; as they were each written entirely in Spanish, I must assume she never learned to read or write, which is very often the case for those not in the Guatemalan upper class.

"Gracias," she smiled at me.

It's probably her first time on an international flight, or maybe any plane for that matter. I help her put her seat into its facade of a recline.

David is seated a couple rows and several seats away; I decide to brave the bossy flight attendants by leaving my seat to give him a pen to complete his own customs form. It says we only have to fill out one per family, but, until we get home and switch over all my official documents, the government doesn't recognize that we are family, married just over a week ago. It certainly won't care that we spent our "honeymoon" roughing it in remote regions of Guatemala with my in-laws who are Mormon missionaries to the area, though I'm pretty sure the experience should put me in the "only one form per family required" category. It's obvious people only do this kind of honeymoon for family, right?



Our plane has begun its descent, and soon I will be on U.S. soil again. Getting home, unpacking wedding gifts, and eating some pasta sounds really good right now, but every arrival comes with a departure and this one leaves behind me a country of spectacular beauty, natural grandeur, and amazing people. After a hot shower, with A/C flowing up through vents in our carpeted floors, I will snuggle up to David on a comfortable, full-size mattress...and I'll miss Guatemala at least a little.


Preamble to a Proposal

The first of our travels...

You know you've escaped civilization when your cell phone declares firmly, "No Service." When David and I pulled into the Akers Canoe Rental that late Sunday afternoon, all communication with the rest of Missouri and the world seemed a relic of hours previous. The young guy renting us the canoe, his dad who apparently owned the place, and the older, white-mustached guy who thought I was sixteen or seventeen, all happily informed us that we had the river virtually to ourselves this early in the year, that there were places you didn't want to walk inland or risk being lost in the woods for days, and that the recognized campground areas had had their pay phones removed (what they didn't mention were that all the campgrounds were still closed for the winter--no bathrooms, no running water). Spring break in solitude, away from the distractions of civilization? Accomplished.



I hadn't canoed the Current River (or any river, really) in about ten years. In a bit of characteristic over-confidence, however, I was sure I was up for the adventure when my college sweetheart asked me to take the trip with him. We had been dating several months, secretly smitten with each other for much longer, and he seemed to be getting almost as serious about me as he was about hammocks, hikes, and humming out of tune to folksy music. Now, in his typical nonchalant confidence, David was mapping out about sixty miles for us to cover between Sunday evening and 15:00 Thursday. Our final destination would be Powder Mill.

In a burst of uncharacteristic trust, I assumed he knew what he was doing...until we actually started methodically pummeling the river with the well-worn canoe's deceivingly "light" paddles. We probably only rowed 1.5 hours to find Cave Spring where we planned to spend the night, but I knew immediately my arms and shoulders would be either in a coffin or looking something a little like a mini, female Arnold Schwarzenegger in bad need of a back massage by Thursday.

Cave Spring was a perfect camp spot which we had entirely to ourselves. The trees on the northeast side of the river made a private little cove angled back from the stream and sat just beside the cave where we later found a beautiful reflection pool. I was almost sure it would be my favorite campsite of the trip.



David cut down a tree for firewood and left me to cut it into smaller pieces while he cooked pasta for dinner. My muscles were the only part of me that screamed when he handed me that hack saw, but I must admit there were some loud thoughts going through my head. We had been talking about our relationship during the first, small leg of our watery journey, so I knew that he was viewing our adventure as a way of testing our compatibility in the long run. Some sort of competitive "I-will-prove-myself" asserted its stubbornness, and I decided this whole role reversal thing would just have to work, regardless of if I had any clue how to saw wood or not.

In spite of being far more at home by a stove than in the woods, I made incremental success with the tree. David announced soon, his boyish grin adorably spread from ear to ear as usual, that supper was ready. We shared the pasta around the not-so-awesome Coleman camp stove and discussed the high potential for running out of food before the trip was over.

Before it was completely dark we walked back to the cave and held each other while we looked out over the river and up to the stars that were beginning to poke out of a very expansive sky. And naturally, you can't enjoy a cave properly without an echo contest.

"I LOVE YOU," David shouted.

"I love you, too," I giggled back.

We didn't seem to be getting much of an echo.

David tried again. "WILL YOU MARRY ME?"

Still no echo.

I grinned. He shrugged. "Well, it still had a nice ring to it..."

We both cracked up at his pun. My slight disappointment that there really wasn't a ring to the joking question was abated by a discovery: Kisses in a cave, I deduced, are even more romantic than by the Eiffel Tower. Although that may possibly be because I've never been to the tower, or France at all, for that matter.

~*~



By the end of the week we had survived our first trip together, stuck in a canoe with nothing to do except talk and row. The days wove stories of numerous beautiful and romantic campsites, a rescued dog, furtive baths in frigid waters, sore muscles, wild horses, arguments when we hit rough waters, and the solitude of nature in the grandeur of early spring. I loved the beaver dam and he loved the baby turtles. We exchanged memories, watched bald eagles soar overhead, ate fine cuisine in our sand-scrubbed dishes, and surprised a river otter who appeared to think tourist season should still be years away. I cut wood, built fires, and pounded in tent stakes with the bottom of a cast iron pot; David did most of that too, but more masculinely. Together we avoided sunburns, investigated overgrown paths, and explored every cave we found. I let out a deep breath when we drove away and hoped we had proven compatible.

~*~

A couple weeks later on March 31st, David and I went out for a walk at Sequiota Park. It's a recently renovated park and one of the most popular in Springfield, but since it was nearly 22:00 and completely dark, the park was very empty and quiet that night. He seemed to think we were due for another cave exploration, and Sequiota boasts a couple of accessible caves with the occasional bat for a guide. 

As we approached the entrance to the nearest cave, we noticed some odd little flickers of light in the entrance. Curiosity pulled us along the trail of little candle-lights until we had almost reached where the make-shift lighting seemed to end at a shrine of sorts. David feigned complete ignorance as I wondered aloud who had left a shrine in the cave until we were right at the last candle, set atop a box that contained another small box. 

That cave had a wonderful ring to it.